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Egr Delete Instructions with pictures

Jimmyb

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I know I am way behind on finally getting this loaded but better late than never I guess! We just switched to a Mac so there has been a little bit of a learning curve, hence the time delay. On a side note, the pictures where taken on one of the first ones I did with steel plates instead of stainless and cheap hardware. The parts in the kit are much better quality. I have some kits left for sale that will include everything pictured in the instructions. If you are interested, e mail me at j.gb25@hotmail.com they are $120 including shipping. You must have the egr disabled with an ecm flash to completely remove everything shown. It can be done on a stock ecm tune but you will have to leave the egr valve plugged in. You can still remove all other components but will have to leave the valve plugged in to be code free. If you are going to get an ecm tune, ask them to disable the egr function which should be done at no charge!
 
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I know I am way behind on finally getting this loaded but better late than never I guess! We just switched to a Mac so there has been a little bit of a learning curve, hence the time delay. On a side note, the pictures where taken on one of the first ones I did with steel plates instead of stainless and cheap hardware. The parts in the kit are much better quality. I have some kits left for sale that will include everything pictured in the instructions. If you are interested, e mail me at j.gb25@hotmail.com they are $120 including shipping. You must have the egr disabled with an ecm flash to completely remove everything shown. It can be done on a stock ecm tune but you will have to leave the egr valve plugged in. You can still remove all other components but will have to leave the valve plugged in to be code free. If you are going to get an ecm tune, ask them to disable the egr function which should be done at no charge!

Just this afternoon, I finished the install of your kit, removing the cooler and lines. It’d sure look cleaner with no valve sticking out of the intake, but it works just fine this way without having the ECM EGR function disabled, no codes. Great kit, thanks!
 
Just this afternoon, I finished the install of your kit, removing the cooler and lines. It’d sure look cleaner with no valve sticking out of the intake, but it works just fine this way without having the ECM EGR function disabled, no codes. Great kit, thanks!
Where did you end up leaving the valve at?
 
Where did you end up leaving the valve at?

Complete as a whole unit mounted to intake with plate sandwiched between pipe and valve flange, works fine. System vacuum system and sensors intact, ECM is happy.
 
Thank you for posting the pictures along with instructions for the delete. I still have not gotten around to it yet but going to try this weekend.
 
Thank you for posting the pictures along with instructions for the delete. I still have not gotten around to it yet but going to try this weekend.
Please email me if you have any questions, the quality of the pictures was much better before the file size was reduced to load it here,
 
Sorry to dig up an old thread but these directions are what I used to do my EGR delete. One thing to note that is talked about in other threads but not show is in regards to heater lines. If you have a factory heater (aftermarket too) you cannot cap off the coolant lines. On the factory heater set up a line comes off of the EGR cooler and runs to the heater. Then a return hose runs from the heater to the other side of the water pump.

On my install I left the return hose alone and for the supply hose I installed an approx. 12" section of 5/8" heater hose from the pump to the coupling on the valve cover (see attached photo). Also worth noting it seems like the heater takes longer to get hot after doing the EGR delete. My hypothesis is this is due to the coolant not being heat soaked a second time by the exhaust at the EGR cooler. Plus side is that's one less component adding heat to the cooling system!

IMG_0538_LI.jpg
 
Are these kits still available? If not what are you guys using to cap the water and vacuum lines?
5/8" ID caps for the water lines, you can get them off of amazon or any auto parts store like autozone or orillys. I removed all the vacuum lines and canisters, but I also got a replacement ecm from gilomen innovations in a stage 2 tune that took care of that side of the delete so i didnt get a check engine light on when i removed all the sensors and junk. On the airbox and alternator lines i left an inch or so of tubing, put a screw with silicone in it and used a ziptie as a clamp. So its water and air tight.

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You'll probably have to cut out you own kit since many of the online suppliers I normally used are out of stock. You can take your old egr and draw out a template. I personally could cut out and grind a new set in about an hour. You'll need a coupler too to couple the coolant hoses that used to be connected to the egr cooler.
 
Sorry to dig up an old thread but these directions are what I used to do my EGR delete. One thing to note that is talked about in other threads but not show is in regards to heater lines. If you have a factory heater (aftermarket too) you cannot cap off the coolant lines. On the factory heater set up a line comes off of the EGR cooler and runs to the heater. Then a return hose runs from the heater to the other side of the water pump.

On my install I left the return hose alone and for the supply hose I installed an approx. 12" section of 5/8" heater hose from the pump to the coupling on the valve cover (see attached photo). Also worth noting it seems like the heater takes longer to get hot after doing the EGR delete. My hypothesis is this is due to the coolant not being heat soaked a second time by the exhaust at the EGR cooler. Plus side is that's one less component adding heat to the cooling system!

View attachment 5271
The passenger side circled in red is the return line?
 
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