Electric fan install require radiator to be removed to mount?

[Cloud]

Upon further inspection I appear to be wrong about the notches being used

 

[Roxasuras]

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They've been doing it this way for a few years without issue, so I think this is going to be a great solution. Maybe (doubt) I'll find a way to install without pulling the rad. Possibly a pneumatic drill would provide enough clearance? (Super doubt)

Obviously there is enough material on the outside of the rad that you can drill into without spilling any water. This is good information to have. It also looks like they used the two notches on either side of the fan shroud (4 total) for screw placement, so lining it up should be no trouble at all.

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Looks like you did a nice job

 

[Cloud]

Looks like you did a nice job

Those pictures come from Wade at diesel freak. I'll probably get it done this weekend since it's pretty cold and nothing else to do. Then I just have suspension mods left and I'll be done doing performance upgrades.

 

[MNROXOR]

I bought a electric fan from DF and just pop riveted it to the radiator flange.

 

[Cloud]

I bought a electric fan from DF and just pop riveted it to the radiator flange.

Any chance you can elaborate on this? I know many of us here are not mechanics and in my mind a flange is a piece of metal that aids in coupling pipes for leak free plumbing. Based on your comment in picturing the radiator being set in a type of metal frame. A "flange" as you call it that goes around the outside of the radiator.

Maybe I'll just go pull the radiator and look at it. Sounds simple enough that it'll hit me like a ton of lead

 

[mickeybobs]

I used J nuts ,available at Ace hwe...Pop rivits are ok but makes repairs later more difficult
( like out in the boonies) ..And put the sensor for the fan AFTER the radiator has done its thing.

 

[Cloud]

So I took my radiator out. Determined that in order to install this thing you have to remove the brackets from the radiator.

You are left with a 5mm flange to work with. So that means I need some 1.5mm self tapping screws that can hold a radiator fan and shroud in place while rocking and rolling on the trail... I don't think so.

Sure wish this thing came with some instructions or hardware. Like even just the pictures I took, I asked DF for pictures and they just said, "we used self tapping screws"

So I guess I'm the first to tell anyone how to do this.

Drain radiator

Remove hoses

Disconnect radiator cap from reservoir chain.

Remove four bolts with nylock nuts and flat washers holding the rad bracket in place.

Rotate rad counter clockwise

Pull rad from top

Fully drain rad

Remove bracket from rad

Figure the rest out for yourself, I guess.

 

[Cloud]

I guess I could have it tig welded to the flange.

My problem with using tiny screws is that while it may work for the vast majority of users. It will not work for me. I'm the guy that breaks everything, so I have to over-engineer everything. I bought a diesel willys with 5.38s so that I could go beat the hell out of it. I just don't think there's enough meat in that flange to bother attempting it as is. I may see my local machine shop about it and see what they think.

 

[MNROXOR]

I guess I could have it tig welded to the flange.

My problem with using tiny screws is that while it may work for the vast majority of users. It will not work for me. I'm the guy that breaks everything, so I have to over-engineer everything. I bought a diesel willys with 5.38s so that I could go beat the hell out of it. I just don't think there's enough meat in that flange to bother attempting it as is. I may see my local machine shop about it and see what they think.

For what its worth I used three pop rivet per side. I have 11,000 miles on mine since installing and to problems. Some people commented on me doing this in another forum that what it I have to remove. It's not a big deal just drill out rivets.

 

[Cloud]

For what its worth I used three pop rivet per side. I have 11,000 miles on mine since installing and to problems. Some people commented on me doing this in another forum that what it I have to remove. It's not a big deal just drill out rivets.

I suppose rivets could work. I had a riveted muffler blow itself apart in about 10k miles but that was on a 690 thumper.

I really like the idea of fully threaded nuts best. Loctite is my hero

 

[txroadkill]

If your that worried then use jb weld in addition to the self tappers. Or if a semi permanent install is desired then some silly cones could glue it together.

 

[Cloud]

If your that worried then use jb weld in addition to the self tappers. Or if a semi permanent install is desired then some silly cones could glue it together.

I'm just afraid that a screw small enough to leave any meat on that flange would be extremely weak. Aluminum likes to tear and after you account for the threaded portion, the shank of a small enough screw would barely be over 1mm. I feel like stainless has the only chance for survival. Maybe in overestimating the abuse it will receive.

 

[bordercollie]

I used a "Flex lite" electric fan on my old RTV when the oem went out. It worked well and had adapters so it could be attached to the radiator itself. I attached to the shroud though. It did a good job and could be used as a pusher or a puller depending on how you connected the wires.

 

[Cloud]

I bought a electric fan from DF and just pop riveted it to the radiator flange.

How did you wire up the thermoswitch (sending unit)? The one in the kit that is way too big has one prong. The diesel freaks unit has two. Do you pigtail it together?

 

[Cloud]

Turns out I didn't have the instructions I was supposed to have. Would have made the whole thing easier on me... Oh well, it's done now

 

[Roxasuras]

Turns out I didn't have the instructions I was supposed to have. Would have made the whole thing easier on me... Oh well, it's done now

That is always a plus. I usually save me in the Circular file.