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OFFICIAL: What did you do to your Roxor today?

I installed Mike marker hubs today
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No no no, it's Mile Marker, Mike is the younger brother and he makes specific signs for state agencies. Those signs are called mile markers ... LOL, ok ok ok, I am sorry, I am only kidding, I shouldn't have coffee in the afternoon! On the serious side, I have the same ones and I am very happy with them. I used them a lot this winter going from elevation to sea level so they got their workout! Enjoy
 
Ok, I just finished upgrading the four bolts, tightening the receiver hitch, and then putting the trailer hitch on. Almost a perfect fit.

The # 10 bolts went in fine on the left. On the right side (passengers) I had to drill the frame holes out slightly. Anyway, the hitch receiver is fully tightened, and the trailer hitch is on, and it looks fine with my extended spare tire carrier.

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I didn’t do this today but thought I’d still share. Bought this trailer box from Harbor Freight for $120 I believe and bolted it to the bed behind the rear seat. Fits perfectly and allows the gate latch on the rear door to close. Couldn’t have fit any more perfectly.

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New Non-Locking latch for the driver's seat box and the new bolt on receiver hitch.

For a while these receiver hitches were not available, and I was going to fabricate my own. I like this receiver because it is rated for the advertised tongue weight of 349 lbs., and the towing capacity of 3490 lbs. These are the max capacities for the Roxor per Mahindra. I have seen other receivers but at lower capacities.

I need to tighten all the bolts yet. Anyway, On The Rox provided 4 extra larger diameter bolts. I will go get the proper flange nuts and swap out 4 of the smaller bolts for these larger diameter bolts.

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I need to remove those darn locks too.
 
When I built my cab, I took the verticle back of it all the way to the top of the fender where it slopes forward. Is better to keep the rain out and gives a bit of space behind the seats for a cooler, toolset and extra clothes if needed.
Well, the starter thing. As mine is a 19 and I had been hearing so much about the weak starter in these, I figured I would order a spare, just in case.
As my battery was starting to need a charge the last time, I charged it and when I hit the key nothing!!! As I said I ordered a new starter it came in the very day I hit the key and nothing. I replaced the battery and still all is good but won't turn over so I guess the starter goes in and a new one will be on the way. I be darned if I will be out in the bush on a overland getaway and have a starter fail in the bottom of a canyon. Will keep one in a padded ammo box
 
changing out the starter, what a pain ita. Hard to get my paws down in there. Short throw with a ratchet and working an endwrench is almost impossible. Doesnt help to have raynauds to the point I can't feel anything. Now to warm up and get that last bolt off the top.
 
It's in. What should be a 20min job took me over an hour. Tight fit just getting it out after getting the bolts off.
I put the gear drive one in. 30dollars more, but it looks like a much better unit. Is a tight fit and some of satan's words with a bloody left hand getting by the wire harnesses and what all down from the top. Oh well, I have learned if I don't bleed the job isn't done. At least it is in and fired right up. Now to order another one just in case. Will be part of my oem.
 
It's in. What should be a 20min job took me over an hour. Tight fit just getting it out after getting the bolts off.
I put the gear drive one in. 30dollars more, but it looks like a much better unit. Is a tight fit and some of satan's words with a bloody left hand getting by the wire harnesses and what all down from the top. Oh well, I have learned if I don't bleed the job isn't done. At least it is in and fired right up. Now to order another one just in case. Will be part of my oem.
I was always told...If you ain't bleedin you ain't workin.😆
 
I went by Harbor Freight today and picked up Two more 6 LED Flood Lights for the back of the roof. I already have one mounted in the Center of the Sloped Rear of the Fortress Roof. Aimed right at the spare tire. I will mount these Two on each outboard edge of the roof. That should really light up the rear of the Roxor. One "Center" to light up the Bed, and the Two Outboards to light up behind the vehicle.

I also put an order in with Quadratec for a YJ Cowel Seal, Hard Top to Windshield Seal, and the Seal & Reveal for the windshield glass. All Fairchild rubber. I also ordered a set of Heavy Duty Wipers. This should get the YJ Windshield installed , when I get it painted.

I had previously ordered a set of Heavy Duty/Weldable Roll Bar Flanges for the Windshield Connection. (Max helped me out with a source for them)

Getting my parts together to install the YJ Windshield. Hopefully it will warm up a lot in the near future. The snow finally started melting off today. Still plenty on the ground though. It takes a while to melt off 10 Inches of snow when it stays Blue Cold.

I need to get a couple more Switch's on order. One for the Front Light Bar, and the Second for the Two Speed YJ Windshield Wipers. I plan to wire them Low High and Off. I am not going to worry about Intermittent or the Park Function. Still considering a Windshield Washer.

Bob R
 
USMC you are going to like the Under Seat Storage Knobs. They are way handier than the Key Locks. I keep my Tow Straps, Tree Straps, Soft Shackles, and Snatch Blocks under the seats.

Bob R
 
I brought the YJ Windshield Frame in to work this afternoon. I finished sanding it down. I will tape it off and start spraying Krylon Fushion in Spanish Moss on it tomorrow. I should have all the Seals and Trim in a few days from Quadratec.
If the Spanish Moss is not a good color match, I can spray Krylon Flat Olive Camo over it with no issues.

Bob R
 
I just got a can of it and sprayed it on my trailer curious if it would match. Now I did not have the Roxor side by side or close by to compare to but from what I saw it’s close but it will not be close enough to touch up with. I had some paint custom done and used that on my grill. And even with the RAL 6003 code it was still slightly off. So I guess my Spanish moss can will be for miscellaneous projects. I saw it when I bought rust reformer and thought for 9 bucks it’s worth a shot.
 
I brought the YJ Windshield Frame in to work this afternoon. I finished sanding it down. I will tape it off and start spraying Krylon Fushion in Spanish Moss on it tomorrow. I should have all the Seals and Trim in a few days from Quadratec.
If the Spanish Moss is not a good color match, I can spray Krylon Flat Olive Camo over it with no issues.

Bob R
I went the CJ windshield route on my 2020. Had to redo the roll cage but now its one of a kind. Having a hard lid being made for it now
 
PAINTING WINDSHIELD FRAME:
I put Three Coats (One Can) of Krylon Fusion in Spanish Moss on the Interior Side of the YJ Windshield Frame today. It looks great, just not sure about the Spanish Moss color match. I read somewhere that this was the color to use. I may need to make a clean spot on the Roxor to see. I do have Krylon Flat Olive Camo paint that I could use for the finish coats. The Krylon Olive Camo and Krylon Fusion are compatible, per Krylon.

FABRICATION:
Hoping to get my Fabricator Guy on the windshield installation shortly. I will be attaching the Roxor Roll Bars to the YJ Window frame like on a factory YJ. I do not do stupid things in the Roxor , so this set up should be safe enough. I have the new Heavy Duty Flanges for the install. Much heavier duty than the Factory Beer Can Metal used on the factory YJ Roll Bar Flanges, and much better to weld to. Not sure yet what we will do blending the Roof to the YJ Windshield Frame. The height difference between the Roxor Roll Bars and the YJ Windshield Frame is approximately 3 Inches. Planning on keeping the Factory Roxor Roll Bar Height all the way to the front Roll Bar Connection Sleeve, then bending it down to connect to the Windshield frame.

OPTIONS:
Bend a new angle on the Fortress Roof that is on it now.
Make a Filler piece to go between the Windshield Frame and the Fortress Roof.
Build a new Roof from scratch, and sell the Fortress Windshield and Roof Assembly.

NEXT PHASE IN BODY WORK:
The plan is to keep the factory YJ Windshield Angle so that the Factory YJ Half Doors can be fit up as a second phase to the work being performed. The ultimate plan is to have working YJ Half Doors, and close in the sides for year round use of the Roxor.

CJ2Rox did you cut the Cowl for the CJ Defroster Ducting? I seriously thought about cutting a Duct Hole in both the YJ Windshield Frame and the Roxor Cowl, then using a CJ Cowl Seal. I ended up just ordering the YJ Cowl Seal with no Duct Hole. Having a Defroster would be nice, and also a lot of work. I might consider adding the defroster later on mine. It might work ok to just blow hot air under the dash and let it go up through the duct with not Defroster Hose ran from the Heater. It would be nice to know how well doing it that way would work.

Bob R
 
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PAINTING WINDSHIELD FRAME:
I put Three Coats (One Can) of Krylon Fusion in Spanish Moss on the Interior Side of the YJ Windshield Frame today. It looks great, just not sure about the Spanish Moss color match. I read somewhere that this was the color to use. I may need to make a clean spot on the Roxor to see. I do have Krylon Flat Olive Camo paint that I could use for the finish coats. The Krylon Olice Camo and Krylon Fusion are compatible, per Krylon.

FABRICATION:
Hoping to get my Fabricator Guy on the windshield installation shortly. I will be attaching the Roxor Roll Bars to the YJ Window frame like on a factory YJ. I do not do stupid things in the Roxor , so this set up should be safe enough. I have the new Heavy Duty Flanges for the install. Much heavier duty than the Factory Beer Can Metal used on the factory YJ Roll Bar Flanges, and much better to weld to. Not sure yet what we will do blending the Roof to the YJ Windshield Frame. The height difference between the Roxor Roll Bars and the YJ Windshield Frame is approximately 3 Inches. Planning on keeping the Factory Roxor Roll Bar Height all the way to the front Roll Bar Connection Sleeve, then bending it down to connect to the Windshield frame.

OPTIONS:
Bend a new angle on the Fortress Roof that is on it now.
Make a Filler piece to go between the Windshield Frame and the Fortress Roof.
Build a new Roof from scratch, and sell the Fortress Windshield and Roof Assembly.

NEXT PHASE IN BODY WORK:
The plan is to keep the factory YJ Windshield Angle so that the Factory YJ Half Doors can be fit up as a second phase to the work being performed. The ultimate plan is to have working YJ Half Doors, and close in the sides for year round use of the Roxor.

CJ2Rox did you cut the Cowl for the CJ Defroster Ducting? I seriously thought about cutting a Duct Hole in both the YJ Windshield Frame and the Roxor Cowl, then using a CJ Cowl Seal. I ended up just ordering the YJ Cowl Seal with no Duct Hole. Having a Defroster would be nice, and also a lot of work. I might consider adding the defroster later on mine. It might work ok to just blow hot air under the dash and let it go up through the duct with not Defroster Hose ran from the Heater. It would be nice to know how well doing it that way would work.

Bob R
I didn't alter the windshield. Found a used wiper kit and added a switch! Also found the jeep dash that fit directly! I cut up my Rops and made brackets to mount tubes from center loop to windshield. Someday ill add a center loop from floor to tubes and connect to windshield. The windshield is nice to not have to deal high Roxor parts
 
I didn't alter the windshield. Found a used wiper kit and added a switch! Also found the jeep dash that fit directly! I cut up my Rops and made brackets to mount tubes from center loop to windshield. Someday ill add a center loop from floor to tubes and connect to windshield. The windshield is nice to not have to deal high Roxor parts
I used a cj windshield also.. Works great I read about the spanish moss paint. I too did a camo on mine and used the moss color. It is a soft green, I love it along with some black, grey, and an off red-brown. Pics are around here somewhere lol. Just can't bring it up from my ph.

By the way, I'm in western Washington now. I'm near Capitol forest west of Olympia if there is anyone interested in hooking up, give me a pm.
 
I sprayed the Exterior Side of the Windshield Frame Saturday. I am getting Three Coats on each side per can of Krylon Fusion. All the Paint is applied, and drying.

WIRING THAT NEED MODIFIED FOR THE YJ WINDSHIELD:
The Fortress Windshield that I presently have installed, Hinges to the Fortress Roof, and mounted in front of the Cowl. So I drilled the Cowl on the Left side, and ran my wiring up the drivers side roll bar. This wiring powers my Rear 6 LED Flood Light mounted on the rear dovetail of the roof, My Windshield Wiper, My 12V Power Receptacle on the Exterior of the Hard Cab Bulk Head, and My Rock Light on the Roll Bar that I am using for an Interior Light. I will have to cut this wiring and pull it down under the dash for the YJ Windshield installation. I am not 100% sure just yet how I will reinstall the wiring. I could run all the wiring except the Windshield Wiper Wires in EMT (Metal Conduit) below the door opening, and go up the Roll Bar behind the seat. If I were to go that route I would need to hold off rewiring until I have the doors installed. I could also come out the front of the dash board and turn the wiring up, and go up the Windshield Frame. This would cause a problem if I need to open up the Dash Board to work under the dash later on. A third option would be to drill the windshield frame, and pull the wiring through the Windshield frame to the top then back to the roll bars. This might be do-able, the fly in the ointment would be getting the wiring bundle back out the back of the windshield frame at the top. Pulling each wire individually might let this option work. If I sized everything in advance and made the hole the right size for a Grommet that would work, this could work out.

I also plan to relocate the Auxiliary Power Panel to a more access-able location. Just thinking I probably should get the Heater installed while I am working on the wiring under the dash. I will need to replace the Windshield Wiper Switch (Off/On) with a New Switch (High/Off/Low), I will also need to remove the Factory Roxor Light Bar Switch, and install a new Back Lighted Marine Switch matching all the other switch's from Rocker Switch Pro's. Doing all of this work as one project would probably be the best. Redoing everything as a single project would help making everything work together better. It would eliminate problems like running wires across where the Heater goes. I will also need to round up the Light Bar, so that I know which side to route the wires up to it. Just thinking if I were to relocate the Auxiliary Power panel under the hood, I could reroute the wires to the Drivers side of the dash under the hood. This would eliminate the problem of running the wires side to side under the dash, keeping all of the wires out of the way for the heater installation. If I were to run the wires in EMT to a location behind the seat, I could just coil the wiring for the light bar, and leave it until I mount the light bar. That way I could route the wiring around the Roll Bars to either side for the Light Bar installation.

Just thinking some more. If I left enough slack to drop the EMT all the way to the floor I could use a couple straps with screws with nuts to hold it until the door work was underway. At that point it could be taken loose from the body and moved enough to get it out of the road. Brain Storming on paper is helping me work this out. Some suggestions from fellow owners would not hurt either.

EDIT: I now have the HIGH/OFF/LOW Wiper Switch and the FRONT LIGHTBAR Switch on order with Rocker Switch Pro's. (02/08/2026)

I should have the Paint Cured and all Windshield Installation Parts, as well as the new Switch's ready by next weekend. Now to hope for a nice warm day somewhere past the 14th of February to start putting things together.

Bob R
 
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